Basic Itinerary



Day 1:
Flight to Aruba  •  Savaneta

Day 2:
Arikok National Park  •  Miralamar  •  Dos Playas  •  Boca Prins  •  Fontein Cave  •  Quadirikiri Cave  •  Bats  •  Boca Grandi  •  Seroe Colorado  •  Wild Donkeys  •  Baby Beach  •  Eagle Beach

Day 3:
The North Shore  •  Oranjestad  •  Pelicans  •  Arashi Beach  •  California Lighthouse  •  Alto Vista Chapel  •  Philip's Animal Rescue  •  Natural Bridge  •  Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins  •  Casibari Park  •  Andicuri Beach

Day 4:
The Donkey Sanctuary  •  Hooiberg Mountain  •  Aruba Donkey Sanctuary  •  Palm Beach

Day 5:
Around Oranjestad  •  Eagle Beach  •  Butterfly Farm  •  Oranjestad Monuments  •  Surfing Lesson at Arashi Beach  •  Passions on the Beach

Day 6: 
Leaving Aruba  •  Sunrise at the California Lighthouse  •  Butterfly Farm  •   Snorkeling at Boca Catalina

Day 1: Houston, we have a problem

Thursday, May 28, 2015

Welcome to my Winsconsin ... Aruba blog!

I had nearly finished mapping out a trip to Wisconsin, when Sandy found a great deal on direct flights to Aruba. Sorry Wisconsin, but you're no match for tropical Dutch soil!

The sun has barely risen when we arrive at the airport; except for a shocking number of people slumped at the bar, Obrycki's is empty. It has the questionable honor of being one of the top ten airport restaurants in the US. Despite my initial skepticism even I have to admit that my bacon & cheddar frittata with seasoned potatoes and toast is quite yummy. Sandy's Wake up & Fly scrambled eggs, bacon, muffin combo is good too.

Our flight leaves right on schedule and should get us to Aruba around 1 o'clock, but when we are cruising over Florida the pilot switches on the intercom:

“We have a problem ….”

...

...

...

After what feels like an extended pause he continues, “not a big problem, but one that will require us to return to Baltimore as we can't safely cross the water”

A tense silence fills the cabin and people shift in their seats uneasily. I'm doing good not panicking, while Sandy pretends not to be breathing fast. I'm compiling a list of vacation ideas that do not involve flying, when I notice the plane keeps making slight turns, always to the right. Gulp.

I won't bore you with the thoughts that cross the mind, while one's hurtling through space in a plane with an undisclosed malfunction. Mind over matter -- I will myself to relax.

Of course, I fail miserably and my heart is hammering away thu-thump ... thu-thump ... thu-thump, thu-thump,thu-thu-thump!!!!

Will this be the last last picture I take?



Suffice it to say that we land without incident. When we are finally released back into terminal B, the urge to fall to my knees and kiss the carpet is overwhelming.

In a little over two hours we have traveled approximately a hundred feet.

After walking off some nerves we pick up a donut from Dunkin Donuts. Thanks to our unplanned arrival the gate area is crowded and tempers flare when the flight to Albany leaving one gate over finds out they are suddenly faced with a six hour delay. Poor Southwest is having a field day.

Since we all gave up our boarding passes getting onto the first plane we line up in the same order again and use our passports as a boarding pass. If all goes according to plan we will end up with a 3 hour delay, but instead we sit at the gate, and sit, and sit … I fall asleep for a while … and we sit.

By the time we touchdown in Aruba after an uneventful flight, we have racked up a four hour delay.



One of the perks of being Dutch is that I get to go through the (only marginally faster) residents and Dutch citizens line.

A representative from Optima car rental is waiting for us when we exit the terminal and drives us over to their office where our car is already waiting at the curb. Let the adventure begin!

Aruban drivers are a bit crazy. Traffic stuck? No problem! Let's just cut across the median and drive through the bushes to get by! Yikes, I'm glad our rental has a "V" license plate indicating clueless tourists at the wheel.

Little herd of wild goats hanging out on a roundabout.



We have no trouble finding the Coral Reef Beach Village and Apartments. The Dutch owners, Jet and Hans are already waiting to show us to our room for the next 3 nights.




We have the cutest little room just steps from the ocean; you can see it right outside the window and Jet tells us we can even roll the bed outside on the patio and sleep outside. Mosquitoes be darned --- that is so happening!! Maybe not tonight, but soon.




Just a few steps to the water


Little crab on the dock




The resident cat


After taking some pictures around the hotel we walk over to the local beach shack, de Zee Rover, where they fry up the catch of the day for you. Since it's the catch of the day you are limited to shrimp and whatever kind of fish they happened to have.




Today is mahi-mahi day and we place an order for 2 filets, a bit of shrimp and 2 orders of fries, all for just $20. We stop by the bar while our food is being prepared and I ask the bartender to pick something local for me; he returns with “heaven in a bottle,” a tropical banana drink that is indeed quite yummy.

I love sitting out on the dock! What a cool place to have dinner.



The shrimp are the biggest I have ever seen!! Sadly, I'm not very fond of them, but Sandy happily gets to work ripping off their little legs (ewww). The fish is amazing though and we eat until we can eat no more.




 All boats are tethered for the night


The lights from the restaurant next to our hotel, the fancy Flying Bonefish, has lights hitting the water and it looks so beautiful! It feels so nice with the warm evening breeze that I decide to sit in the rocking chair in front of our room to record everything that happened today.



It's not even 9pm, but having just come off night shift we are running low on sleep so we will call it a day and hope for an early start tomorrow.


Breakfast: Obrycki's
Snack: Dunkin Donuts
Dinner: De Zee Rover
Hotel: Coral Reef Beach Village and Apartments

Day 2: Arikok National Park

Friday, May 29, 2015

Slept great in the little four poster bed and we wake up feeling refreshed after yesterday's long day of travel.

After playing with the dogs, Curly & Jazz, for a while, and quick chat with Jet and Hans, we head straight for Arikok National Park. Or, at least in the general direction, because the lack of street signs makes navigating a challenge.

My guidebook mentions a concession stand inside the visitor center, but when we arrive it turns out my information is outdated and we have no choice but to go back.

On the way down Sandy noticed people going up to an unmarked window across from the grocery store and she reasons they are either getting food or drugs, so our chances are pretty good. This is a place for locals, no sign, no labels, no prices ... just a little display in the window.

When I ask the shopkeeper what's on the menu, I'm met with a blank stare, but when I repeat my question in Dutch he flashes an amused smile and gives me a quick rundown of the offerings. I'll admit I stopped paying attention at the mention of kroket and we leave with a large “broodje kroket," a tradional Dutch snack (see Wikipedia), as well as two drinks for less than $5. As an added bonus we get a cool Aruban Florin coin as change for our USD.

Though paved, the roads in Arikok are probably best traversed in a high clearance vehicle because of the deep drainage ditches traversing the road. Poor Buggy is just barely scraping across at times!



We pick Miralamar as our first stop, an abandoned mining area from Aruba's gold rush that has been reduced to a few remaining crumbles of walls. They never actually found a lot of gold, but for a short period of time several mines were erected across the island.

The views are pretty nice from up there even though it's a very ominous cloudy day.

(panorama)

In the distance, a little herd of goats is bleating away, but I never manage to find them. Sandy does spot a little bunny-like critter scurrying across the sand, as well as a blue-green bird and a flock of bright yellow suikerdiefjes perched high in the cacti.

Female Aruban whiptail lizard exploring the ruins.

Aruban prickly pear cactus in bloom.


As you've probably guessed by now, Aruba's desert landscape doesn't look like your typical Caribbean getaway.



I love this decaying old cactus ... check out the rubbery white flesh peeling off to reveal a wooden skeleton underneath

For our next stop I pick Seroe Jamanota, the highest point in Aruba at 620ft (189m). The views are supposed to be amazing, but when the gravel roads turns into two narrow strips of cement rising above the gravel Sandy is quick to turn back.

A herd of wild goats around the next corner quickly makes up for any disappointment.

Peekaboo goat

Mutant goat on steroids!


Dos Playas is up next; located at the end of an actual dirt road, this rough beach is unsuitable for swimming but a great place for pictures and an a weekday you might have the place all to yourself.




Neon pink and blue man-of-war jellies are sprinkled in with the piles of seaweed that have washed ashore.




Of course, no beach would be called Dos Playas by itself so we head over the cliff to check out the other side where an even lovelier beach awaits.


If you scramble up the rocks on the near side of the beach you'll find a made-made cross hidden on the rock.

I suppose they would've called it Tres Playas if there was a third beach, but that doesn't stop me from scaling the sharp rock to check out the other side.
Fascinating pools of milky water have collected in hollowed out crevices in the rock … must be salty tide ponds!

Really cool shelf near the water's edge.

Sandy has grown tired of waiting for me and caught up with me, so after showing off my discoveries we continue a little further away from the parking lot and find yet another sets of shelves near the ocean.

Nature's infinity pond


Lots of colorful little shells and an awesome isopod fossil.




There's something about desolate landscapes ...



We drive over to the next beach, Boca Prins where we witness an almost full circle rainbow around the sun. Wow! I'm so dazzled I forgot to get my camera out until it starts to fade.



Sandy spots a stale looking pond of khaki water with the creepiest family of crabs lurking near the water's edge. Droves of them are hiding out in the mangroves lining the pond and I belly flop in the sand to get a picture.
Like the goats, they are mutant crabs on steroids and frankly the stuff of nightmares. Look at your own risk!


Not your Maryland blue crab!



Parched we stop by the deserted Boca Prins restaurant for some cold drinks. Gatorade has never tasted this good!We get another cool Aruban coin for change, this time a rounded square 50c piece.

Suikerdiefje (little sugar thief) in the garden.


More goats on the way to Fontein cave!



At Fontein Cave, a park ranger is just about to take a Dutch family on a tour and we join in. I enjoy listening in to the Aruban style Dutch.



Cool petroglyphs on the ceiling


The tour continues outside with a side trip to the “bron water bad,” a natural spring fed pool filled with the piranha of the Caribbean, the aggressively feeding tilapia.

Brilliant blues and greens of the male Aruban whiptail lizard.



Whatcha lookin' at!?

Probably the best (and most ticklish) part was the complimentary fish exfoliation in the stream. Can you believe no one wanted to share in this experience with me?! I love their gentle nibbles.




Our guide demonstrates what happens when you poke a hole in a termite mound. Yikes!

~ ~ Please continue to Part II for more national park pictures ~ ~ 

Day 2: Arikok National Park continued


Quadirikiri Caves, another limostome cave, is the last stop in the park. It's deserted when we pull up, but just as we're about to climb the stairs to get inside a colony of quads comes roaring down the road in the giant dust cloud.

I rush up the stairs and fumble with the settings on my camera to get a couple of pictures without people in it.

Love how this natural skylight bathes a small section of the cave in light.


A healthy bat population calls the cave home and I'm having so much fun watching them and trying to sneak their picture. Trust me when I say bats are not very good models!

They apparently love to hangout in pairs! I never knew that about bats but it is so cute!


Just when I'm about to give up on the perfect bat picture I stumble upon bat city!


In hindsight, I needn't have worried about the quad tour -- they left well before we did and when I climb to the top of the small lookout next to the cave the only sign of life are the electronic windmills in the distance.

(panorama -- please click me)
Aruba's nearly unrelenting trade winds help keep the island cool during the hot summer months and the wind farm helps provide close to 20% of the islands energy.

Just before exiting the park, we hit the goat mother load; a flock of probably upwards of fifty goats (and a few confused sheep) are passing through the area.  



Quick stop at Boca Grandi.


The red anchor at Seroe Colorado.





A vendor is selling coconuts across the street, which has attracted the attention of several wild donkeys.



Every car that stops is subject to a thorough examination and when I get out to take some pictures, they are quick to walk over and see if I have any food on me. Sorry guys, no carrots!




Back in the car Sandy pulls out a little bag of Werther's -- a caramel flavored hard candy -- and says if horses can eat them, why not donkeys? Well, it's hard to argue with that, except the stuff turns out to be like donkey crack and we quickly find ourselves mobbed.

Oops.

Have you ever tried to close a car window while three donkeys are thrusting their big heads inside? It's kind of like playing whack-a-mole!


Phew, window is closed! Clearly, the donkeys are none too pleased ...



Finally, the donkeys lose interest and move on to their next victim so that we can safely drive off. Stay tuned for more donkey fun in the days ahead; the donkey sanctuary has moved up on our list of things to do.

The I ♥ Aruba bus stop on the way to Baby Beach.


The gloomy weather doesn't make for a great beach day, but our late arrival yesterday messed up our itinerary so we decide a short stop at nearby Baby Beach is in order.

While the views aren't the best due to the nearby refinery, Baby Beach is one of the more popular destinations on Aruba. The protected water inside the lagoon is safe for the entire family and the snorkeling is supposed to be one of the better sites on the island.

Maybe we caught it on a bad day, but my short exploratory mission was a bit ... meh. Some very large schools of tiny silver fish as well as a few larger varieties, but visibility could have been better and what little coral I saw wasn't very interesting.

Sandy didn't quite understand my fascination with this tree, but for me it was the coolest thing about Baby Beach.



Royal Poinciana tree in bloom




At this point, the headache that has been irritating me all day is starting to hit pretty hard and I'm not sure if it's thirst, hunger, too much sun, too little sleep, sinus problems or a combination thereof. I've been forcing fluids all day so I'm pretty sure that's not it, but I am hungry and we pull over at the market for some snacks.

They have some of my Dutch favorites like stroopwafel (caramel wafers), coffee cookies, sultana crackers, and kroepoek (fried prawn cracker) and in my hungry state I just grab all of them. A couple of cookies on the way to dinner do little to relieve my head ache though.

Oranjestad traffic is a nightmare; we are barely moving and it turns out there's a 5K race going on. How I would have loved to have one of those neon yellow race shirts!

Unfortunately, traffic doesn't really let up even after we've passed all the festivities. No matter which street we turn down, we invariably end up in standstill traffic or thwarted by yet another one-way street. Finally, I give up and burn some data by having Google maps help us out. While it doesn't show live traffic conditions, we're able to escape the gridlock by letting it direct us away from the city center.

Yami Yami serves, as they themselves call it, “Dutch Chinese,” something I never knew was a thing until now, but it's basically Chinese food the way you'd find it in Holland, and I am overjoyed to see some of my old standby's on their menu. At less than $12 for a 3 piece combo meal it's a great deal!

Sandy has ordered a loempia (Indonesian spring roll), with sweet and sour chicken over nasi (fried rice) and I got chicken soup with babi pangang (Indonesian grilled pork) over nasi. We also split a side order of chicken sate (chicken skewers in peanut sauce).

The beach is just a short distance from the restaurant so we take our food to go and head down the street to Eagle Beach.
Just in time for the sunset!

The food is so yummy and my babi pangang tastes like in Holland! Now if only the mosquitoes would leave us alone; the wind is dying down and even Deet does little to deter them. This was the only time that they really bothered us.  


To be honest, at this point my headache got so bad that I don't remember much from the drive back. I was so glad to be back at the hotel!

The shower doesn't have hot water, but the “island temperature” water is refreshing without feeling cold and after yanking the knots out of my windswept hair for oh, forever, I am feeling like a new person.

Time to get some sleep!


Breakfast: nameless hole in the wall
Snack: Dutch goodies from the grocery store
Dinner: Yami Yami
Hotel: Coral Reef Beach Village and Apartments